Trips 96 - 99 Lake Woods to Katherine

Camp 96 South Warloch Rest Area

Reluctantly, we left Lake Woods on Thursday 1 July 2010. As of today, we have now been on the road 2 years and 3 months. Who said it wouldn’t last! We started to make our way up to Katherine and as we don’t have to be there until Thursday 8 July we decided to do a few scheduled stops along the way.

For lunch we stopped at Daly Waters where there were so many caravans that we didn’t know what the attraction was. We found out that Frank the Chookman who entertains there every night was the main attraction as well as the 1930s Daly Waters historic pub. Daly Waters is an outback town with a rich history. The Daly Waters pub is the quintessential outback watering hole famous for its bush hospitality, huge meals and quirky decorations on the walls. Just 265kms south of Katherine, Daly Waters has the distinction of being Australia’s first international airfield. For almost 30 years, from the 1930s to the late 1950s, it was the focus of activity in the area. Initially, it was used for flying mail into the NT from Qld. It then became a staging and refuelling point for Qantas international flights flying through Darwin and onto Singapore and other domestic flight services. By the beginning of WWII, military air traffic had replaced civilian air traffic. Although the aerodrome was closed to commercial traffic in 1965, the original Qantas hangar still stands, housing interesting facts, photos and equipment, where you can explore the terminal ruins and walk along the airstrip.

After lunch we then drove further north to Mataranka but we ended up stopping 40kms short of Mataranka to stay at South Warloch Rest Area. A typical rest area with toilets only, we enjoyed the serenity for the night except early in the morning when a bunch of young people came in and decided to make as much noise as they possibly could waking the whole rest area stayers up.

Camp 97 Elsey National Park

On Friday 2 July 2010, we drove the further 40kms to Mataranka. Mataranka township sits on the upper reaches of the Roper River, an hour’s drive south-east of Katherine. With a population of about 250, it services outlying cattle stations and Aboriginal communities and is well equipped with facilities for travellers.

After stocking up on supplies, we headed out to Bitter Springs Thermal Pool just north of Mataranka for a thermal spring swim. Bitter Springs is a tropical spring-fed thermal pool located just 2km from Mataranka. Set among palms and tropical woodland, it is an ideal location to bush walk, swim or simply relax with toilet facilities, picnic benches and BBQs available. Swimming downstream with the current was very easy but trying to swim back against the current was extremely difficult. After only moving 5m of which it felt like 50m, I opted to float all the way downstream, get out and walk back while Don persevere with swimming against the current.


After out swim at Bitter Springs we decided to visit the Mataranka Homestead Thermal pools for another swim. Mataranka Thermal Pool was dedicated as a reserve in 1967 to ensure preservation of the thermal spring and surrounding palm forest, which has survived from an earlier age. The pool is at a constant 34°C and flows from Rainbow Springs at an amazing 30.5 million litres a day. Although a couple of degrees cooler than Bitter Springs we still enjoyed the swim and met a lovely couple our own age, Mario and Ann Marie, from Melbourne.

After our swim, the four of us visited the Elsey Homestead which is an authentic replica especially constructed for the film “We of the Never Never”. Every detail is duplicated down to the hand-hewn local cypress pine. Nearby Aboriginal gunyas, or wurlies, built with the advice of local Aboriginal elders can be seen.


As Mario and Ann Marie were staying at Elsey National Park, they asked us to join them for the night and camp beside them. Elsey National Park, 8km from Mataranka, is another of the region’s natural attractions. The Roper River meanders through the park, flowing through waterholes and tumbling over rocks and tufa dams. We didn’t end up doing the 4.1km one way walk to the waterfall as we didn’t have enough time and everyone was saying that it is not really worth it as the waterfall has been overrun with vegetation.

Camp 98 King River Rest Area

On our way out from Elsey National Park the next day, we stopped at the WWII Aboriginal Camp where 355 occupants where there in 1943. Very interesting to see the cement slabs still in tack with loads of steel drums laying all over the place.

Turning onto the main highway heading into Katherine, the slide out kitchen on the camper decided to slide out and land on the road. Bummer! A couple of vans stopped to assist in lifting the kitchen back up and sliding it into place. Minimal damage with both of the hot and cold water pipes snapping and some slight damage to the underneath of the front section. Very luck actually that the whole kitchen did not buckle or come apart as it landed on the bitumen. Just goes to show how strong a stainless steel kitchen can be.

Therefore, we decided to stay at King River Rest Area for the night to give us a chance to fix it up before heading into Katherine. Tomorrow we are hoping to visit the Tindal and Cutta Cutta Caves just 28km south of Katherine. Then into Katherine Gorge National Park to check out the gorges. Then into Katherine for Thursday and Friday night gigs.

Found out from one of the travellers that the Cutta Cutta Caves costs $16 per person and you must enter with a guide – so a no go this time. Oh well, maybe another time. So instead, we stayed a couple of nights at the King River Rest Area just relaxing and talking to other travellers. We even met a couple of Taiwanese backpackers who told us all about living in Taiwan and their culture. Very interesting and all I kept saying was “Made in Taiwan”.

Camp 99 Katherine

After leaving King River Rest Area and arriving in Katherine driving only 50kms, we visited the Information Centre and then went to the Katherine Hot Springs. These natural thermal springs are located just 5 minutes from the centre of town on the banks of the Katherine River. With a constant temperature of 32°C with surrounding grassy banks and shade trees, this is an ideal spot for a pleasant swim to soothe away aches and pains with toilet and hot shower facilities.

Katherine is the third-largest town in the NT and home to about 9,000 people. It is 320km south of Darwin on the Stuart Highway and is often described as “where the outback meets the tropics”. Renowned for its strong Aboriginal culture, the region is scattered with natural thermal springs, quirky outback pubs and massive rivers. Katherine is often referred to as the “crossroads of the north”, because the Nature’s Way, Explorer’s Way and Savannah Way lead north, south, east and west from this point.

After our dip in the thermal pools, we had a lovely well-deserved hot shower and then headed to the Stuart Hotel to let Athol know we had arrived in town. The gigs in Katherine were scheduled for Thursday 8 July and Friday 9 July and even though we arrived early on the Monday, Athol was so obliging that he offered his front lawn for us to camp on. His property is about 5km out of town and consists of 20,000 acres with orchards, goats and dogs.

So for a few days we just sat around camp relaxing and watching movies. Athol had a change of plans and decided that Wednesday and Friday from 11:00am to 3:00pm would work better. The gig on Wednesday was great with about 120 people showing up with the majority being black. The Indigenous people always make a great crowd with loving the music and dancing their little hearts out. Friday’s day gig from11:00am to 3:00pm was even better with about 150 people showing more enthusiasm than Wednesday. Athol then offered that I play again on Friday night from 6:00pm to 10:00pm so I can have a 3 hour break in between. Friday night’s gig was a little bit more quiet than the day gig but still rocked however I lost my voice at about 9pm and just played DJ music until 10pm. The crowd still enjoyed it and danced the night away.

On Saturday, we went to the Katherine markets where we ran into a travelling couple we had met back at Camp 83. Rob and Judith are travelling Australia like us and have almost been on the road for 2 years selling home made soya candles along the way at shows and markets.

We also spent a couple of afternoons at the Katherine Hot Springs where Don played with the kids while I just relaxed in the warm, crystal clear water.

Don also managed to find out that they have the four seasons of Stargate Atlantis which I spent a considerable amount of time copying onto our external hard drive.

We left Katherine on Wednesday 14 July 2010 to continue north. Thanks again to Athol and Terese for letting us camp on their property and for the gigs at the Stuart Hotel.

Until next time, take care ...

Trips 90 - 95 Borroloola to Lake Woods

Camp 90 Brunette Downs Rest Area

On Tuesday 15 June 2010 (my birthday) we decided to leave Borroloola and head south towards Brunette Downs for their 100th anniversary of their amateur race day where I will be performing two gigs. We stopped at Cape Crawford which lies at the intersection of the Carpentaria and Tableland Highways. It provides a roadhouse, camping and meals so we stopped for a quick drink before continuing on to a rest area some 100km south.

We arrived at the rest area to find the nosiest squeakiest windmill you will ever come across so we decided to continue onto the next one for the night.

At the Brunette Downs Rest Area we met two lovely couples, one in a huge American motorhome and the other in a caravan. We had a lovely night and I even got a cake, candles and espresso coffee for my birthday.

Camp 91 Brunette Downs

We arrived at Brunette Downs on Wednesday 16 June 2010 to set up camp for the week. Since we were camping on open plains we decided to put the full annexe up for protection from the south easterly wind hurling over the black soil plains.

For this 4 day weekend, Brunette Downs is celebrating their 100th anniversary of their race meeting. A huge weekend is expected with over 3,000 people arriving.

We met Tash whom I had booked the gigs through and she introduced us to the necessary people and places. Even though Thursday was the official opening day, Wednesday night was State of Origin at the bar so we stayed in the night.

Thursday morning started off early with the camp draft followed by the horse races at midday. At 5pm the Battle of the Barkley was held which is a fun event and very funny. With an obstacle course of getting out of your swag, rolling it up, putting on your shoes and hat, eating cold green curry porridge, then riding a brumby to a flag and back. The funniest part was riding the oil sleek saddle on a round drum on a round pole and pulling yourself down the pole. The guys kept falling off sideways. For some reason Australians think it’s funny when people hurt themselves.

My first gig on Thursday night was in the Art Gallery for wine and cheese night promoting local artists. With a crowd of approximately 100, I played subdued music including ballads, soft country and piano bar music.

Friday was more camp drafting and rodeo that night. We went to the rodeo after dinner but didn’t stay long because there were so many people that we couldn’t see anything.

Saturday saw the official race day where the ladies and gents dressed up just like Melbourne Cup Day. It was so windy today that I just managed to watch 5 races and the ladies parade then it was back to the camper to get out of the wind for the while.

Sunday bought another very windy day with most of the 5,000 people leaving Brunette Downs to get out of the wind. We would have too if I didn’t have a gig on this afternoon. Not sure how that is going to go as most of the people have left, it is very windy and cold. Anyway, we will just have to wait and see.

The gig on Sunday afternoon was absolutely fantastic. Initially a 4 hour gig from 4-8pm, I was extended for a further 3 hours until 11pm and well paid for it. This now gives us a bit of back up money, which we have been lacking lately. The bar rocked with dancing, presentations of the camp draft results and even a local singing a couple of songs. Even my voice lasted the whole 7 hours which was amazing considering the wind and the dust.

Camp 92 Elliott

From Brunette Downs we decided to head back north 60km to the Barkly Stock Route which took us across to Elliott and Renner Springs the short way. The Barkly Stock Route runs for 233kms between the Tablelands Highway and the Stuart Highway. This gravel road provides the best opportunity to experience the vast open grasslands of the Barkly Tablelands. This route was used extensively by famous drovers, such as Nat Buchanan in the late 1800s and early to mid 1900s, to move stock from the large cattle stations of the Territory and the Kimberley into Queensland. Watch out for livestock while you enjoy the views of the sweeping plains often without even a single tree in sight.

On coming out of the Barkly Stock Route and hitting the Stuart Highway, the speed limit sign said 130km. That’s OK if you are in a sports car, but with our rig, we stuck to 80-90km for the 20kms run to Elliott.

Since we don’t have to be in Renner Springs until Friday 25 June 2010 and we couldn’t find the shortcut track down to Renner Springs, we decided to spend a night at the Elliott caravan park for a well deserved rest and a nice hot shower.

The traditional name for the township of Elliott is Kulumindini and it is the traditional hoe of the Jingili desert people. Located 252km north of Tennant Creek and halfway between Alice Springs and Darwin, Elliott is the second largest town of the Barkly and was named in 1947 after Army Captain Reginald Douglas Elliott, MBE.

Camp 93 Lake Woods

Nearby Elliott is Lake Woods, the spectacular lake which was once part of a huge freshwater basin, which dried up in the last Ice Age, around 23,000 years ago. During this period, the lake reduced in size from 5,000 sqkm to its current 420 sqkm. Longreach Waterhole forms part of this lake and is an important breeding ground for a great number of inland birdlife.

After leaving Elliott caravan park, we opted to drive the 18km of dirt road out to the lake just to have a look however we ended up staying the night cause it is such a beautiful spot. Now don’t get me wrong, I have seen pelicans before, I just haven’t seen them in such vast numbers bobbing their heads in and out of the water looking for fish. Actually, very funny birds when you sit down and watch their activities. Lake Woods is certainly a bird sanctuary and if I was a bird, I would want to live here too. It is so nice here that we even might come back for a couple of days after Renner Springs and on our way up to Katherine.

The night at the lake turned out to be one of the most peaceful nights we have had in quite a while. The wind eventually died down completely, the sky shone with no clouds and the brightest of stars and we even had a camp fire for the first time since Swanvale. What a priceless night!

Camp 94 Renner Springs

Renner Springs, named after Dr Frederick Renner, a medical officer to the workers of the Overland Telegraph Line offers a roadhouse with great meals, friendly hospitality, accommodation and camping facilities.

We left Lake Woods and arrived at Renner Springs on Wednesday 23 June 2010 ready for the gig on Friday night. The grey nomads and other travellers usually only stop overnight here as really it is in the middle of nowhere with nothing much to see or do. Other than the natural spring behind the property which is home to four very territorial geese who attack your legs every time you walk pass them.

The gig on Friday night was a very quiet affair with mainly staff members as the crowd and a couple of travelling grey nomads. The manager decided to charge a $15/head cover charge and although the caravan park was full and so were the hotel units, many people decided not to pay the cover charge and enjoy the show. All in all, we still had a good night with the ones that were there enjoying the music and a bit of dancing.

Camp 95 Lake Woods

On Saturday 26 June 2010 we left Renner Springs to start heading north towards Katherine. Since we have about 10 days up our sleeve till my next gig in Katherine, we opted to spend a few more days at Lake Woods after enjoying our first visit here less than a week ago.

We picked the same camp spot although this time there were a lot more campers scattered around the lake. The wind has picked up slightly during the day but the nights are so still and peaceful. We still enjoyed watching the different species of birds and their antics in the around the lake. Truly a magnificent spot and well worth stopping here if you have a few days up your sleeve.

On Tuesday, Don decided that a full clean out of the car was in order, so we took everything out, laid the stuff out on the tarp and started to clean and cull. Three garbage bags later and the car had been repacked and fairly clean. You know you can never get all the red dust out of everything!

Until next time, take care ...

Trips 88 - 89 Normanton to Borroloola

Camp 88 Hell’s Gate Roadhouse


After filling up water, food, fuel and emptying the portaloo, we finally left the Norman River, Normanton Qld to head towards Borroloola in the Northern Territory. Travelling along the Savannah Way we came across Burke & Wills last camp (Camp 119). So we have now seen Burke & Wills halfway point at Innamincka and their north point at Camp 119. Pity they didn’t make it any further because they were only a hop, skip and jump from the north coastline.

The Savannah Way changed from bitumen to dirt road just after Normanton heading toward Burketown where we were told that if we see Frank at the Information Centre he would let us know of the Savannah Way road conditions heading into the Northern Territory.

Before arriving at Burketown we discovered Leichhardt Falls. What an amazing area with free camping and fresh water crocodiles sunbathing on the banks just below the falls. Unfortunately, time was against us even though we would have loved to camp here for a night or two.


The Savannah Way through this area is definitely beautiful with lots of causeways, river crossings and rock formations. After seeing Frank at the Burketown Information Centre, we decided to soldier on to Hell’s Gate for a one night stopover.

Hell’s Gate Roadhouse is actually built on the cattle station in this area and the owners have been running it since 1975. Only 50km from the Qld / NT border, we paid $20 for a piece of unpowered dirt with hot showers and toilets. The most we have paid since the beginning of our trip for unpowered site.

Camp 89 Borroloola

After showering and getting dressed up ready to cross the border into the Northern Territory, we left Hell’s Gate Roadhouse just 50km down the road from the border. We have wanted to cross the Savannah Way for a long time, and now we were going to do it. Although the “top road” was officially closed, the previous night we had met two couples who were prepared to wait for us at the Calvert River crossing. Apparently, a lot of people have become stuck in this crossing of late because of the recent floods and boulders in the crossing and local station people have had to get them out with some major damage to vehicles.

Since this water crossing was only 25km pass the “bottom road” turnoff, we decided to go take a look and actually see if it is crossable. The boys walked the crossing several times moving and removing rocks and boulders. Once a course had been set, we meandered our way through successfully. What a thrill!

Definitely be very careful when travelling this “top road” with loads of dips and creek crossings. The other major river crossing was Robinson River and we all crossed this with no problems. With lunch completed at the Robinson River, we continued on only to get a flat back left tyre. After changing the tyre we continued on under just 25km out of Borroloola, I felt another flat tyre but this time on the right hand side. As usual, I got out to have a look to discover that the tyre and wheel had completely come off cause the studs had snapped and the back right hand side of the car was resting on the shockie and brake calliper. The disc drum was about 2 metres behind the car and we had no idea where the tyre and wheel had landed. So after about an hour looking for it in the bush scrub we managed to find it still intact.

In the meantime, a local from Borroloola by the name of Whiskers, turned up and took my mobile phone and drove away. So here we are in the middle of nowhere with a truck that couldn’t go anywhere and no mobile phone. Fortunately, Whiskers did come back with the mobile after ringing the local mechanic, TJS, to come out and get us.

John from TJS turned up and skulled dragged the Patrol onto the tip tow truck, attached the trailer to his towball and took us into Borroloola. Money was an issue at this stage as Don and I really only had $100 with us. We were concerned about the tow charge as well as the mechanical repair charge but John just said that he would sort it out once we were in town. I told John that we had RACQ so we rang them once we were at the mechanical shop to find out that my membership had expired back in September 2009. What a bummer! However, John was prepared to pay for our membership and put it on the bill at the end. Thanks for the offer but we decided not to do this.

I had told John that I needed to be in King Ash Bay for Friday night’s gig and he said that he would either have the car fixed by then or he would find another way of getting me into King Ash Bay some 42kms out of Borroloola. In the meantime, he rang Andrew and Toya, at the Borroloola Hotel where I was performing on Saturday night, and asked if we could possibly camped behind the pub. They of course said yes, and John towed the trailer down to the pub.

By Friday lunch time, the car was fixed with $298 bill later. However John said I could take the car, do the gig at King Ash Bay and pay him tomorrow. Thanks John for being so trusting.

Borroloola was first gazetted as a township in 1885, at which time it was considered a lawless outpost where illegal activities such as smuggling and illicit grog running proliferated. It is now a remote fishing community beside the McArthur River, almost as famous for its unique characters and history as it is for its fishing. Borroloola is a fully serviced town and as the region’s popularity as a tourist destination grows, more and more visitors use Borroloola as a base for fishing expeditions further into the region.

King Ash Bay is the location of the Borroloola Boat and Fishing Club. Located 42kms northeast of Borroloola with half bitumen and half dirt, the general store, campground, accommodation, houseboats and boat ramp are available to visitors.

What can I say? The gig at King Ash Bay Fishing Club was absolutely great with about 160 people ranging in all ages. At the beginning of the night, I had told them the story of our travels and how I was determined to get there to perform so not only did they pay the normal fee but they also collected another $300 from the patrons. Wow! We could pay John without digging into the gig money. I was so overwhelmed of their support.

Saturday night’s gig at the Borroloola Hotel was quiet with only about 10 people. You can never pick it. Toya and Andrew were fine about it and still paid the correct gig money. Thanks to Toya and Andrew for making us part of your family for a few days.

The next couple of days we relaxed around the hotel making friends. We left on Tuesday 15 June (my birthday) to head down to Brunette Downs for the races.

Until next time, take care ...

Trips 83 - 87 Mount Isa to Normanton

Camp 83 Oorindi Rest Area


On our way from Mount Isa to Julia Creek, we stopped at Oorindi Rest Area, east of Cloncurry. We initially only stopped for a stretch of the legs and loo stop, however we met a bunch of travelling couples in all types of rigs that we decided to stay the night.

With a bus, motorhome, couple of caravans and us in the camper trailer, we had a lovely chatty afternoon with nibblies and drinks. Since the bus had a generator, I decided to give these grey nomads a bit of a treat by singing them some songs. So I set up the gear, plugged into the generator and we had a fantastic night. Who would of thought that you can get entertainment in the middle of nowhere at a res stop. Just goes to show that anything can happen when you are travelling on the road.

Camp 84 Julia Creek

The 30 metre wineglass shaped water tower in Julia Creek can be seen for up to 20kms away from Julia Creek, with blue coloured feature lighting creating a visual effect. An interesting collection of memorabilia and photographs can be found at the new Julia Creek Information Centre which has an updated range of travel brochures covering the north west of Queensland’s outback.

Within 5 minutes of talking to Lyn, the barmaid at the Julia Creek Hotel (Top Pub), she offered us to camp in her backyard while letting us use her toilet and shower in the house. This is what i like about these small western country towns. The locals are so friendly and willing to grateful to have a playmate for a while.

The gig on Friday night rocked with a crowd of about 60. The publicans, Elaine and her son, Dave, were very please, paid extra money and insisted that if we ever go through Julia Creek again, to definitely give them a call.

Camp 85 Burke & Wills Junction

From Julia Creek to Croydon we decided to spend a night halfway at the Burke and Wills Junction. Only a roadhouse, this place is very busy with council workers staying in the cabins, caravan park for us travellers and all the necessities you need in the middle of nowhere. For only $8 for an unpowered site, we spend the night chatting to another travelling couple while sharing some travelling and past life stories.

Camp 86 Croydon

Situated in the heart of the Gulf Savannah country, Croydon has a rich heritage which started with the discovery of gold in 1885 and led to the development of a rich, booming gold mining centre. Even today, a golden glow from the past can be seen on the streets of Croydon.

Even though we had been to Croydon before back at Camp 37, this time the pub decided a gig would be in order. The pub doesn’t have any camping facilities and with no free camping around the area, we stayed at the caravan for $22 per night for a powered site.

The pub is owned by Phil, 82 and his wife of 62 years, Val who is 80. They lease the pub out but with management changing hands in this week, there was a little stress shown on the faces of the new managers, Joe and Chris.

Even so, they handled the gig night really well as it was extremely busy with meals and a lot of locals coming to see the entertainment. Brendan, the 31 year old birthday boy, coped the lap dance for the night as everyone cheered and roared. The gig rocked, the locals were welcoming and the Information Centre was informative on road closures.

As we were leaving Croydon we visited Lake Belmore, 4kms out of town. What a gorgeous site as you come up over the rise to see this massive lake of crystal blue water. Unfortunately no camping here but apparently the barramundi are on the bite but with no live bait in hand, we headed off to Normanton, where I’m sure we will have time and bait for fishing.

Camp 87 Normanton

Normanton, the commercial hub of the Carpentaria Shire, is situated on a high sandy ridge within diverse countryside that ranges from wetlands to savannah grasslands. Inland are vast flat plains and in the coast region are mangroves, deltas and saltpans. The wetlands, situated north of town, are a delight to see. Don’t forget to visit Krys the croc, the largest croc ever caught and by a woman. The Gulflander train pulls out of the Normanton railway station and travels along the most original railway line in the world.

A couple of weeks in Normanton seemed a bit much but with one gig cancelled at the Purple Pub due to change in management, we really had no choice. My next gig is in Karumba just 72kms of bitumen road however with no free camping sites in Karumba, we decided to stay in Normanton by the banks of the Norman River. Five star water views along with magnificent sunrises and brilliant red sunsets, who could ask for more. So it is a waiting game at the moment, waiting for Karumba on Friday 4 June and then the Central Pub, Normanton on Saturday 5 June 2010.

Apparently, there are barramundi in the river however we have been only catching catfish. Without a cast net to catch live mullet bait, the barramundi alludes us. Maybe we should invest in a cast net but then we will need to learn how to throw the damn thing. We started catching the catfish on prawns bought at the local shop but then once the prawns ran out, we used the leftovers from the catfish, which we filleted, to catch more catfish. At least the freezer is filling up for catfish means in the future.

Karumba is officially Matilda’s top town. When you’ve made it to Karumba you’ve made it to the tip of Matilda Highway. Just 8km down the road is Karumba Point – and the beach. Karumba Point is the only stretch of beach in the central Savannah that can be accessed by road, and the sunsets are just amazing.

Friday night’s gig was in the Animal Bar at the Karumba Lodge, Karumba. Great night was had by all with about 50 people enjoying the music and dancing.

Saturday night was at the Central Hotel, Normanton. Kym and Garry, who are very welcoming publicans, asked for another gig on the following Tuesday night. That left us 3 days to get to Borroloola in the Northern Territory.

Since we were camped on the banks of the Norman River heading out toward Karumba, we met a heap of tourists as well as some locals who popped in for a cuppa. Someone has to do this job and keep the tourists and locals entertained. What a hard life!

Until next time, take care ...

Trips 77 - 82 Jundah to Mount Isa

Camp 77 Bedourie


We finally left Jundah 14 weeks after arriving there back in mid December 2009. Although, our time spent there was marvellous, it was time to leave and continue on with our journey. Thanks again to Shane and Monique for putting up with us for so long. We really enjoyed your company and the experience. We will definitely come back to Jundah one day.

Bedourie is the administration centre of the Diamantina Shire covering 94,690 square kms, it is the second largest shire in Qld and is twice the size of Denmark.

The Bedourie Hotel, formerly the Royal Hotel, was build in the 1880s of mud bricks and, except for the roof, the building has been largely untouched and has traded continuously ever since. The publican, Trevor, as most other publicans, made us feel very welcome and again gave us a room for 4 nights and decided that 2 gigs instead of one would be great. So Thursday and Friday night it was.

We camped at a free campsite just on the edge of town with toilets and hot showers. Jim who has owned the pub for 45 years is the longest publican I have ever met. The gig rocked with the locals and both Don and I were well received.

Camp 78 Boulia

There are a lot of bush yarns and legends in this Outback country, but the people of Boulia reckon the pick of the bunch are the ones about the mysterious Qld icon, the Min Min light. To preserve the history and myths surrounding the Min Min light, the Boulia Shire Council created the Min Min Encounter Complex. We saw a 45 minute show introducing characters like Gunna and Bluey who have seen the light. Trish and her husband lan on the porch of their station house telling stories about the lights and the possible explanations. But remember this – you don’t go looking for the Min Min, the Min Min goes looking for you!

On Thursday, Don and I visited the Information Centre and after seeing the show I pulled on the big glass and metal door dislocating my left shoulder. So off the hospital to try some pain killers and putting it back in place. So after I took 2 Nurofen plus and a morphine shot from the hospital, they wanted to fly me out via the Royal Flying Doctor service to Mount Isa to take x-rays before and after the shoulder is placed back. I would have to stay overnight in Mount Isa, get treatment, and then once treated, find my own way back from Mount Isa to Boulia. Because of this I ended up refusing treatment.

So I went back to the hotel room, sat for a while, stretch the arm out and managed to put the shoulder back in place myself.

I still managed to perform the gig that night as well as the next night with both nights rocking. Thanks goes to the publican, Trevor, for giving us a motel room since there was nowhere else to camp and for the 2 gigs.

Camp 79 Dajarra

I can say so many good things about Dajarra, so if you are ever in that neck of the woods, please stop there. It is a great town, with great friendly people who truly appreciate tourists and especially ones who entertain. Believe it or not, Dajarra was once the largest cattle trucking depot in the world, processing thousands of head of cattle from as far away as Western Australia. Then came the road trains, and soon the railway was just a memory. Today, Dajarra is an outback town with a rich Aboriginal heritage. At the school, elders preserve indigenous heritage by explaining to the children the highlights of Aboriginal culture, survival in the bush and the local Aboriginal language.

Initially booked for one gig, which was to celebrate a local’s 60th birthday. Tommy was born just outside Dajarra under a gidgee tree and is a well respected elder of the aboriginal and white communities.

After setting up for the gig, people started arriving in their hoards. One lot in particular started to get speakers, stands and instruments out of their car boots. I looked at Shelly, the publican, and she looked at me as if to say “WTF”. Well, it turns out that they were invited by Tommy to play at his party. He was not aware that i already had been booked as the entertainer for the night. An agreement was made that I would play my normal 4 x 45 minute sets and that the band could play during my 15 minute breaks and for the last hour at the end of the night.

After the initial shock to all of us, it really turned out to be a fantastic night. So Happy 60th Birthday Tommy. Here’s hoping you have many more to come.

Rhino and Shelly, the publicans, of the Dajarra Hotel, could not of been more welcoming to Don and I. As well as putting us up in their backyard with power, they fed us dinner and delighted us with their company.

Since we had a couple of weeks up our sleave before Cloncurry, I approached Rhino and Shelly to perform another gig as well as work around the pub for the week, for the same gig money. They took up the offer, so after making beds, doing laundry, ironing clothes, the extra gig on Friday night rocked with all the locals and station people all mingling as one culture. It was great to see and great to be a part of all people, black or white, can live in harmony together.

Thanks again to Rhino and Shelly for our fantastic time spent in Dajarra.

On one of our free days, we went four wheel driving touring with the principal of the school and his wife, Geoff and Ann Marie. We had a picnic lunch under the awning of the truck and a wonderful day of scenery and driving with great company. Even though we did blow one of our tyres along the way (Don as driving at the time) and even though we didn’t find the aboriginal cave drawings, we still had a terrific time.

While in Dajarra, Don was not feeling well so we took him to the Dajarra hospital where they possibly suspected one of the fever virus i.e Ross River Fever or Dengue Fever. His joints and muscles were aching and he just thought it may have been from the kick back of all that grading he did on Swanvale near Jundah. But after so long, this should have healed but was only getting worse. So with blood tests conducted, we would have to wait until we reach Cloncurry to find out the results.

Camp 80 Cloncurry

The township of Cloncurry in north west Queensland is located on the junction of the Matilda Highway and Flinders Highway (Overlander’s Way). Known affectionately to locals as “The Curry”, it is the heart of the great north west.

After introducing ourselves to Nancy, the publican of the Post Office Hotel, Cloncurry, where I would be performing this Friday night, she decided to send us up to Gilbert Park Caravan Park where she would pay for a powered site for 2 nights. See what I mean by smaller towns. They certainly go out of their way to help whenever they can.

The caravan park was probably one of the better ones we have stayed in with beautiful green grass and park managers who are only too willing to help in anyway.

Cloncurry itself wasn’t all that special but certainly a nice clean town with all the necessities needed.

We must have smashed our back window on the way up from Dajarra on the dirt road. Not bad – one window in just over 2 years of being on the road. Anyway, at $460 to replace it, for now it has cardboard and lots of thousand mile tape impersonating as a window.

The gig absolutely rocked with about 150 people. Apparently, another band was playing the same night at the Bowl’s Club but everyone was at the Post Office Hotel, rocking with me. Good to hear stories like this.

We final got the results of Don’s blood tests back and yes he has been diagnosed with Ross River Fever. Only takes one mosquito which must have bit him during our time in Jundah. Ross River Fever attacks the joints and muscles and also makes you very lethargic. It can take anytime up to a year to get over it. Hopefully, cause Don is so strong, fit and healthy, it won’t take that long. We will just have to wait and see what happens.

Camp 81 Quamby

Where the hell is Quamby? Just 44 km north of Cloncurry lies the little town of Quamby with a population of 3 i.e publican, Richard and 2 backpackers. That’s it. Just the pub. The Albert Hotel, originally the Customs house in the 1860s, is all that remains of a once prosperous gold mining and cattle fattening district. So how do they survive? Well it is on the main highway from Cloncurry to Mount Isa and it is surrounded by cattle stations. The publican, Richard, has spent a great deal of money doing the pub up in a traditional rustic feel which looks great and makes you feel like you are well and truly in the country. The travellers stop for the Quamby’s pub renowned hamburger and the station people call it their local pub.

Initially, I was booked for one gig but since we arrived a couple of days early, Richard asked if i could do 2 gigs – one on Sunday night and one on Monday afternoon. No problems especially after the Mount Isa episode, was only too willing to help. He even gave us a donga for the 3 nights since there really wasn’t anywhere for us to put up the camper.

Thanks Richard for making us feel very welcome in your country pub.

Sunday night was great, with locals and passer byes coming home from the Gregory Downs Rowing weekend. Monday afternoon was a bit quiet but we still managed to have a rocking good time.

Camp 82 Mount Isa

Mount Isa is a thriving inland city set among the dramatic landscapes of the Selwyn Ranges and offers travellers a variety of tourism experiences, including Underground Hospital and Museum and Adel’s Grove.

With 2 gigs booked in Mount Isa at the Overlander Hotel, we headed there from Quamby through Cloncurry. The mountains and rock formations east of Mount Isa are spectacular and we really enjoyed the scenic drive from Cloncurry to Mount Isa.

After meeting Rob, the manager of the Overlander Hotel, he mentioned that there is no room for camping and no hotel rooms available, but there is a caravan park across the road. Again, with the free camp site some 30kms out of town, the caravan park was no choice. I really begrudge paying $28 per night for a little bit of dirt with no discount for a week stay.

Anyway, overall Mount Isa is way too big for us. After being in small towns of about 100 people, 20,000 people and traffic lights was just like being back in Brisbane. I had heard the rumour that the best thing about Mount Isa is seeing it in the rear view mirror as you leave town. I am tending to believe that now.

As we had blown a tyre back in Dajarra, I got our good friends, Mick and Nat, back in Brisbane, to send us up the spare we had left behind. Turns out if you need anything sent to Mount Isa from Brisbane, the cheapest way is via Greyhound bus lines. Only $66 later and our spare arrived in time for Goodyear Mount Isa to change the wheels over from the bad tyre to the new tyre at no charge. Maybe Mount Isa isn’t that bad after all.

I had Thursday and Sunday nights booked for gigs. Thursday night was OK but it was a Thursday night after all and from 6pm to 10pm which is really too early. Not a big crowd, probably about 40, and more interested in playing pool than listening and dancing to music.

Sunday night was a complete disaster with the manager cancelling the gig half way through my first set and paying me either. We had stayed an extra 3 nights in Mount Isa at $28 per night for Sunday night’s gig without payment. Apparently, the patrons were complaining about the songs and wanted the juke box on. Funny, isn’t it that i have not received any other complaints from any other pubs before?

So if you are an entertainer / singer don’t play at the Overlander Hotel, Mount Isa. They do not treat you well and totally disregard the agreement and booking.

So we left Mount Isa on Monday feeling very disappointed and with a sour taste in our mouths. I have decided no more gigs in big towns. They just don’t appreciate it like the smaller towns do.

Until next time, take care ...

Trips 64 - 76 Jundah to Swanvale

Camp 64 Jundah


We arrived in Jundah in mid December 2009 from Brisbane going through Gayndah, Thangool, Biloela, Moura, Taroom, Muckadilla, Injune, Tambo, Blackall and Isisford with gigs along the way.

Monique, the publican of the Jundah Hotel, had just undergone surgery so she needed someone to co-manage the pub with her for a while.

Our 14 weeks in Jundah were both memorable and adventurous. Christmas was held by the Thomson River on a property called Carrilla for all the “orphans” who didn’t have family to spend Christmas with. There were canoes, people were fishing, the kids were swimming and jumping off the home made pontoon, Don did a hangi with all the meat donated from all the station people and Jundah Hotel. I even set up the system gear, hooked into a generator and gave the folks a few songs during the day and night. I must say that it is one of the best Christmas days Don and I have spent together.

Monique asked if I would perform at the hotel for New Year’s Eve. The night rocked with all the locals who were in town and the kids had an absolute ball dragging the adults out onto the dance floor.

New Year’s Day was spent on the Thomson River just outside of Jundah. First time ever I had seen Monique drunk and it was very funny. As usual, with the Jundah locals, we had a great time and caught some bream and yellow belly.

Just after New Year, the rain started and within no time Jundah became an island. With the roads cut off east, north and south, we amused ourselves with only the locals for a couple of weeks with no tourists able to get in or out of Jundah. The Thomson river outside Jundah reach 6.7 metres while the river to the south reached 9.75. Unfortunately though once the rivers resided the mosquitoes and sandflies moved into Jundah in their hoards. Everyone was suffering was all the bits including the locals who are pretty much used to all of this.

This is when I decided to my Jundah to Jundah Tour while Don stayed with Shane and Monique to help them out at the Jundah Hotel as well as on Swanvale.

On my way back from my Jundah to Jundah tour the rains had started again even though the wet season was officially over. My last 4 gigs were cancelled due to floods and I had to get back to Jundah before I couldn’t get in at all. I made it of course, and Don and I stayed there until the floods resided once again.

Thanks for Monique and Shane for making us part of your family for our 14 week stay and thanks to every local in Jundah, who made us feel like we were locals too.

Camps 65 – 75 Jundah to Jundah Tour

Since Don was gaining so much experience with Shane on Swanvale and Monique no longer needing me at the pub, Don and I decided that I would go away for a while and do a Jundah to Jundah tour to make some money. So once the January 2010 floods resided I was off to do a tour heading east, south, north and then back west to Jundah. This included the following towns:

• Camp 65 Cunnamulla
• Camp 66 Bollon
• Camp 67 St George
• Camp 68 Garah
• Camp 69 Moree
• Camp 70 Gravesend
• Camp 71 Condamine
• Camp 72 Wallumbilla
• Camp 73 Roma
• Camp 74 Muckadilla
• Camp 75 Mitchell

So I was away for 7 weeks doing 12 gigs. Initially it for 9 weeks doing 16 gigs but the last 4 gigs in Tambo, Aramac, Charleville and Morven were cancelled due to more flooding in March 2010.

The 12 gigs were:

1. Oxford Hotel, Cunnamulla – where I was given a room for the night

2. Bollon Hotel, Bollon – camped on the banks of the river

 

3. Riverview Hotel, St George – met another kiwi who looked after me while I was in St George

 

4. Club Hotel, Garah – Deb and Tony, the publicans, were absolutely great people

5. Golden Grain Hotel Motel, Pallamallawa – rocked with a buck’s night

6. Royal Hotel Motel, Moree – OK

7. Gravesend Hotel, Gravesend – rocked

8. Commercial Hotel, Warialda – gig cancelled due to renovations not being completed but still paid the fee

9. Federal Hotel, Wallumbilla – played here before but still a good night

10. Royal Hotel, Roma – day of the races, loads of drunk people

11. Muckadilla Hotel Motel, Muckadilla – played here before

12. Hotel Richards, Mitchell – Lyn and Ingrid, two terrific ladies who own the pub



I had a great time, met some wonderful people, but most of all I missed Don very much and we both decided that we would never do this again separated. As great as it was for Don to gain so much experience on a cattle station, branding, mustering, fencing, drafting, grading, etc and even though I managed to make some money and pay the bills, it still was hard being apart considering we started this journey together. Anyway, was an experience that I do not regret.

Camp 76 Swanvale

Shane, from the Jundah Hotel, also owns a cattle property called Swanvale some 40kms east of Jundah with about 260,000 acres. After doing my Jundah to Jundah tour, Don still have a few grading jobs to do, so we decided to camp out there for a while instead of the pub.

We camped on the banks of a beautiful creek while Don graded the two main roads in and out of Swanvale. With not a soul in sight, we used the portaloo for the very first time. Fantastic invention – no smell and ends up all mush with no lumps.

After Don completed the two main roads, we then moved camped to beside the homestead where I cooked dinner every night for Shane, Don and the 2 French backpacker boys.

Until next time, take care ...